How To Install 3 Two Foot Wide Sliding Windows Side By Side

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, get-go laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style home, they roughshod in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide forepart porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including woods paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV'south fall 2007 projection in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, depression-e insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the business firm had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old house. Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

ane. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from equally narrow equally eleven ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come up in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad woods, and aluminum-clad woods.

There are three bones types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom establish on the Newton business firm—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to piece of work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is and then fastened to the former side jambs. Because y'all're calculation new jambs and liners, the drinking glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Total-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they take a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only choice when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, within and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

The about of import stride in the window-replacement process happens long earlier installation day. It's when you measure out the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure y'all order a replacement unit of measurement that's the right size. Here's how to do it.

Start past measuring the inside width of the onetime window frame, jamb to jamb, in 3 places: across the top, heart, and lesser. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
Next, measure out the frame's height from the height of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the correct. Again, tape the smallest measurement.
Check the squareness of the frame past measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The ii dimensions should be the aforementioned. If the frame is out of square by 1/iv inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can exist shimmed to fit. Annihilation more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't expect correct, you'll need a full-frame replacement.
Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a pick of sill angles.

iii. Take Out the Sash

The get-go step is to remove the quondam sash from the window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job advisedly; they break easily.)
Adjacent, take out the parting beads to gratis the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, at that place won't be any beads. Simply printing in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward.
Then pin one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Man Prying Off Jamb Liners For Window Replacement

If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them costless. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.

five. Prep the Frame

Man Using Flat Bar To Pry Off Jamb Liners

Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-grade wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer'south or Minwax.
Then sand the jambs polish, and prime number and pigment the surfaces.

6. Remove the Erstwhile Sash Weights

If the original sash weights are notwithstanding in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
Unscrew the admission panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Man Uses Drill To Prep For Window Replacement Insulation

Tom likes polyurethane cream, because information technology'southward more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

Make sure to utilize merely depression-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; annihilation else will bow the frames and continue the sash from working.
Get-go, pull out whatsoever existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
Then bore 3/8-inch-diameter holes, one near each end and one in the heart, down through the sill and up through the head jamb.

eight. Spray in the Cream

Man Sprays Foam Into Drilled Holes For Window Replacement Preparation

Shoot the expanding cream into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial organisation, but you lot tin can practise the same job with foam from a tin can, similar Dow's Cracking Stuff.)
Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cutting information technology off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

nine. Caulk the Opening

Man Caulks Along Windowsill For Window Replacement

In training for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the peak and sides of the frame. Also use two continuous chaplet of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Working from inside the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip information technology up into the opening. Press the window tight against the outside casings or blind stops.

11. Fasten It Loosely

Hold the window in place with i 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should exist in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Accommodate the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until information technology is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is square, screw it in identify through the predrilled holes.
To avert bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

xiii. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Man Stands In Front Of Window Replacement To Find Gaps

From the outside, mensurate the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Make full gaps less than 1/4 inch broad with elastomeric caulk. Annihilation wider must showtime be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
On the within, make full whatever gaps effectually the window with minimally expanding foam.
Finish upward by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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